Restaurant Details

According to owner Manuel Pinto, seats in the candlelit cellar are in such demand that 1,000 lovestruck couples have to be turned away every St Valentine’s Day.

It was a little less busy when my boyfriend and I dined out on a Wednesday evening but there was no doubting the intimate atmosphere inside the restaurant.

Manuel Pinto has run The Candlesticks with his wife Maria for more than 30 years and their son Nelio has joined them in the business in the last few years.

The family are Portuguese and their native country figures heavily in the menu. Fish is brought directly from Madeira and bacon and olives from mainland Portugal.

“When we opened the restaurant we wanted to combine French, Portuguese and English food,” said Manuel.

The menu is changed every three months and specials are added every day.

“We buy our herbs, vegetables and meat locally and the menu changes, depending on what is available,” said Manuel.

For just £17.90 diners can sit down to a three course meal from a menu featuring a dozen starters including melon frite – melon deep fried in butter served with ginger and brandy sauce, and sardine grille – fresh grilled sardines served with lemon.

There are as many main courses. Poulet diabo, half chicken off the bone grilled and finished in a sauce of English mustard, mushrooms, herbs and white wine, and sauté de veau marengo (pieces of veal cooked with onions, tomatoes, mushrooms, herbs and wine) among them. There were six additional specials. Coffee and sweets are also included in the price.

My boyfriend chose a flaked tuna salad with slices of tomatoes, potatoes and eggs, served with a vinaigrette dressing to start. I tucked into Champignons Niçoise, mushrooms cooked in a sauce of butter, white wine, parsley and garlic. For our main course, my boyfriend chose guinea fowl in a red wine sauce.

He was impressed with how tender the meat was. I opted for something from the specials menu – espada fish from Madeira grilled with banana and olive oil.

The fish was tasty and just fell apart and the sweet taste of banana complemented it.

Both dishes were served with a selection of vegetables including broccoli, carrots, peas, roasted and boiled potatoes, all cooked to perfection.

There were nine mouth-watering options on the sweet menu, including strawberry and spiced cranberry mousse, pineapple in ginger and brandy and Mrs Pinto’s spicy Madeira cake.

I chose crème caramel, which had a bittersweet taste, and my boyfriend ate a slice of mixed fruit pie with custard. If diners have any room left after this veritable feast, a basket of fruit is offered at the end of the meal.

The food was delicious, the service quick and we couldn’t have wished for more friendly staff.

5*

Facts: Candlesticks Hotel and Restaurant, 1 Church Lane, Stamford, PE9 2JU. Call 01780 764033.
Open for lunch and dinner Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Sunday. Open for dinner only Tuesday and Saturday. Lunch served between noon and 2pm, dinner 7pm and 10.30pm.

Menu Examples:

Starters:
Cocktail de melon Madiera – Diced melon served in Madeira wine
Pâté maison – A home-made pâté of livers, herbs and wine served with tomato and salad
Oeufs en cocotte savoyarde – Eggs baked on a bed of potato with cream and cheese
Bisque de crevettes – A home-made soup of prawns finished with cream and brandy

Main course:
Filet de sole Portuguese – Fillets of lemon sole in a sauce of tomatoes, onions, herbs and white wine
Steak cavalo – Prime steak seasoned with herbs, cooked in butter, garnished with a fried egg
Espetada – a speciality of Madeira, cubes of seasoned beef seasoned with salt, bay leaves and garlic, grilled on a skewer served with rice and straw chips
Specials: Tuna steak Portuguese in a sauce of onions, tomatoes, garlic and white wine
Pasteis de bacalhau, cod croquettes deep fried, served with Mary Rose sauce.

Dessert:
Chocolate buttercream gâteau
Strawberry cheesecake
Cheese and biscuits
Portuguese custard tart
Rich coconut gâteau

* Details correct at 17/03/06