Reviewed by Emma Cousins - July 2005

After a hard day in the office and with a hungry friend in tow, I ventured down for a bite to eat and a drink at The Chameleon in West Street, Wisbech, which came highly recommended by my parents.

Stepping into the bar from a quiet town street, you are immediately struck by the smart but comfortable surroundings of this little bar restaurant, which has been completely refurbished in recent years by owner Joe White.

Joe took over the business from his parents in June 2004, and immediately set about knocking walls down and making his own mark on the place.

And it’s certainly paid off. Regular professional types arrive weekly to sit back and forget their daily troubles, and couples say they enjoy the friendly, relaxed atmosphere of both the bar and restaurant areas.

Joe said: “We try to keep things simple. We concentrate on good food and good drink and that’s why people keep coming back.

“That said, we understand that our regulars don’t want to eat the same thing again and again, and so we change the specials board weekly and the restaurant menu is usually changed every two to four weeks.

“Our lunchtime menu is the only one that stays the same.

“Customers know they can come here every month to eat and find something new to try, and I think that’s important.”

Chef David Hawkins plays a major role in the success of the restaurant. He came to Wisbech from the kitchens of the Great Northern Hotel in Peterborough, and looks forward to thinking up new and creative dishes.

As well as enjoying the tasty offerings served in simple white bistro dishes, those keen to support local businesses can have a clear conscience dining in this restaurant.

Much of the food is sourced locally, and Joe and the chef can often be seen paying a trip to local butcher and fruit and vegetable wholesalers to ensure their food is as fresh as possible.

Joe said: “I think it’s important to support local suppliers. We all work in the same area and it makes good sense to shop locally. Plus I know exactly where the food is coming from.”

Drinks soon arrive after sitting down, and the waitress service is exactly what you want, friendly but non-obtrusive. Because of the cosy layout of the downstairs restaurant it is easy to catch the eye of staff who come quickly to your table ready to take your order.

The restaurant upstairs is the perfect size for functions and parties.

First timer Dez opted for the gazpacho on the specials board – a chilled soup blended with fresh

vegetables, which he compared to a variety he tried in Spain and enjoyed with the same gusto.

I similarly enjoyed the warm goats cheese salad with olive tapenade, which was so delicious I could have ordered another serving then and there.

For a main course I chose red mullet fillet with citrus infused couscous pesto dressing, and Dez decided upon the breast of chicken stuffed with brie and grapes and served with white wine vinaigrette.

Both meals came in hearty portions, which were beautifully presented and just as tasty as they sound.

Joe said: “We try to keep our focus on the food and drink, which is very important to us. In fact, the only other entertainment we have at The Chameleon is a live stand-up comedy night with a compere every six to eight weeks on a Sunday, to which we charge £6 a ticket.

“The comedians are to a very high standard, and quite a few of them have been nominated for Emma awards, which are like the Baftas of the comedy world.

“The next comedy night is this Sunday, and we have Dougie Dunlop, Keith Dover and Martin Evans coming down, all of which have received excellent reviews.”

Fine quality ingredients, an imaginative and changing menu and a relaxed feel puts this Wisbech restaurant in a league of its own.

4*

Facts
The Chameleon, 55-57 West Street, Wisbech. Telephone 01945 474198.

Serving hours – Monday to Friday 11am to 2pm, Monday to Wednesday 7pm to 9pm, Thursday 7pm to 9.30pm, Friday 5pm to 9.30pm, Saturday 6pm to 9.30pm, and Sunday noon to 3pm.

menu examples

Starters
Chilled tomato and basil soup
Warm goats cheese salad with olive tapenade
Ploughmans terrine

Main Courses
Rolled turkey escalope filled with parma ham and prunes with wholegrain mustard vinaigrette
Charcoal grilled rib steak with peppered sweet brandy butter
Breast of chicken stuffed with brie and grapes with white wine vinaigrette
Fillets of red mullet with citrus infused couscous pesto dressing
Spinach, cream cheese and mushroom filo parcel with sweet chilli sauce

Desserts
A homemade selection changed regularly

Prices
One course £14.95
Vegetarian course £11.95
Two courses £17.95
Three courses £20.95

*Details correct at 29/07/05

29 July 2005