Reviewed by Ann Molyneux-Jackson

On a cold, wintry night, the 12-mile journey from Peterborough to The Chequered Skipper, in the pretty village of Ashton, just outside Oundle, seemed like a bit of a trek.

But sitting down at our table with a fire casting a warming glow over us, my husband and I soon forgot the chill of the evening.

The Chequered Skipper, named after a rare butterfly by Dame Miriam Rothchild, whose family built Ashton as a model village back in the mid 1880s, was known as The Three Horseshoes until the ’60s. It still looks as it did then, with its stone walls and thatched roof.

But all is not what it seems as the pub was gutted in a fire in 1996 and has since been rebuilt to be as close to the original building as possible.

The pub and restaurant’s interior are a complete contrast to the exterior, being light, modern and stylish.

Apparently Clark Gable, Cream drummer Ginger Baker, and Chas and Dave have all frequented this hostelry at one time or another.

So we were in good company.

The pub was taken over by chef patron Ian Campbell in 1997.

Mr Campbell chooses local suppliers to provide the ingredients for his menu.

The dishes on the menu change every few weeks.

On our visit, caramelised onion and goats cheese tart (£4.50) and potted crayfish served with cayenne butter and granary bread, were among the starters.

I picked smoked ham and pork terrine studded with cranberries, capers, and gherkins, served with apple chutney and granary bread (£4.95).

The terrine was quite coarse but very tasty.

My husband tucked into a bowl of leek and potato soup with warm bread (£4.50).

The main courses had something for most tastes, although only one vegetarian dish.

Lincolnshire sausages served with mashed potatoes, seasonal vegetables and a rich onion gravy (£8.95) competed with pan-fried pork loin steak served with mashed potatoes, braised red cabbage with apple and a cider and thyme sauce (£12), beer battered haddock fillet served with chips and peas (£9.25) and glazed baked ham, double free range egg and chips, for our attention.

I was swayed by the vegetarian option, a deliciously sweet parsnip and butternut squash risotto finished with butter and parmesan (£8.95).

But I couldn’t eat it all as it was very filling and a bit samey after a while.

My husband ordered the pan-fried steak served with chips, tomatoes, mushrooms and a peppercorn sauce (£15.95).

My sweet tooth got the better of me, and I gave in when asked if I would like dessert.

A blackboard of homemade treats (all £4.95) including treacle and walnut tart, served with crème fraiche, plum and apple crumble served with hot custard and profiteroles served with rich chocolate sauce, was thrust in our direction.

I toyed for a moment with having the brandy snap basket served with Cointreau soaked satsumas and lemon mousse, but eventually settled on a chocolate shortbread tower served with chocolate brandy and cranberry mousse.

I wasn’t keen on the shortbreads as the cocoa was quite overpowering, but the mousse was lovely.

My husband chose a selection of cheeses and biscuits (£5.50) and was delighted with his Stilton, cheddar and brie.

The service was excellent, and we went home happy and well insulated against the near to freezing temperatures.

The Chequered Skipper really is a little gem in the Northamptonshire countryside, and is well worth seeking out.

4*

Menu examples

STARTERS

Leek and potato soup served with warm bread £4.50

Caramelised onion and goat’s cheese tart £4.50

Smoked ham and pork terrine studded with cranberries, capers and gherkins, and served with apple chutney and granary bread £4.95

Potted crayfish tails served with cayenne butter and granary bread £4.95

MAIN COURSES

Pan-fried sirloin steak served with chips, tomatoes, mushrooms and a peppercorn sauce £15.95

Pan-fried pork loin steak served with mashed potatoes, braised red cabbage with apple and a cider and thyme sauce £12

Pan-fried fillet of salmon served with new potatoes, seasonal vegetables and a white wine and mushroom sauce £10.25

Beer battered haddock fillet with chips and peas £9.25

Lincolnshire sausages served with mashed potatoes, seasonal vegetables and a rich onion gravy £8.95

Parsnip and butternut squash risotto with butter and parmesan £8.95

Glazed baked ham, double free range egg and chips £6.95

22 October 2004